Friday, July 22, 2022

Hajurama

My family believes, that my paternal grandmother, hajurama,  was over 100 when she passed away. I will underscore, it is merely a belief. There is no concrete record of her birth date. Just approximations tied to the year of a major earthquake. She certainly had a prolonged longevity. Mother of 4 daughters and 4 sons, she lived to see numerous grandchildren and great grandchildren. My grandfather passed away at a much younger age, we approximate that to be in his 60s. As was the tradition, youngest son and his family shouldered the responsibilities of her care. My father being the youngest of the sons, she was our family's charge. But most of her life she was independent. Cooked for herself, did all house chores, took care of cattle, climbed trees with sickle in hand to chop branches for cattle fodder, bunched them in a neat heap, wrapped with a strap, namlo, and hauled it a distance with namlo wrapping forehead, bent forward a little to center the gravity. While my father pursued vocations away from the home village, she lived in the main house in Gorkha. One of my aunts lived next door and she was the main support. Only at a much later age, her 80s per our estimations, she needed more support and my parents and our family were more consistently engaged in her day-to-day care. As the village started emptying out with urban migration and later with a violent civil conflict, we moved her to Kathmandu to live with us. After a few years of living in Kathmandu, she passed away. I was not there when she departed. 

As I think of hajurama's last days, the most striking memory I have of her later years is her constant rambling about the misery of her prolonged life. She was physically still quite robust. But her desire to live had simply withered. "When will the god take me away?" she would implore. She would list the relatives that had perished and ask, "why only me?" This intensified further as she started losing one adult child after another, thulo buwa, sainlo buwa, thuli ama, mailo buwa. Towards the end of her life, I remember of hajurama as a disoriented person. Not the disorientation we see in delirium from medical maladies, but a disorientation from the life events such that there was a degree of randomness to her speech and behavior. Deep inside you still knew that she had intact senses but restraints to hold them in order were set asunder. It was as if she was intentionally releasing the authority of her faculties, hoping that attendant entropy would summon the death closer. 

As I have pondered of her predicament, then, and now, celerity of change of the world surrounding her has been the culprit I have narrowed down to. She was a woman married to a man in her childhood and perhaps started bearing children soon after puberty. She lived in a village. The extent of your world was defined by what you saw and the places you were able to walk to. Certain social order was defined by a few entirely familiar people around her. And she belonged to a rather privileged position in that social order. In the recluse life of a village with sparse people, where prosperity was defined by the size of your cattle herd, tillable land, number of children, ideas were likely sparse and disruptions sparser. Much later into her adulthood did the wider world started pouring in. I surmise, to her, with absent context and no fathomable mechanics for the changes. Vehicles, telephones, schools, ideas of egalitarianism, ideas of rights and grievances, televisions, strange people from other parts of the world, children and grandchildren carrying out incomprehensible conversations- often in different languages, and with incomprehensible meanings. I specifically recall her asking me one day while we were watching a black and white television in Gorkha, "Babu, explain to me, how are all these people able to get into that box and do things?" It was a genuine, deadly serious wonder. But it generated a hysterical laughter from her grandson (likely a teenager at the time). I am certain I used her question to amuse others a countless time and consistently generated laughters. But I have been convinced later, this profound existential wonder typified her struggle to reconcile with the ambient world that was central to her disorientation, and a catalyst for the void she created to get away from life. 

While hajurama's disorienting exposure happened later during life, I feel that analogous disorienting exposure afflicts my generation of youth from Nepal as well. Particularly those of us who grew up in a village and immigrated to Western countries. Stretch of time spanning a vastly different life is rather short. It was not too long ago that I lived the life under a kerosene lamp with food being cooked in wooden stoves. Notion of essentials beyond stored grains from harvest season and what was available from backyard being clothing, salt and sugar. It is an utterly different life, living as an active clinician and educator at a major academic institution in America. Would the relative youth for these experiences shield us from hajurama's disorientation? Or is it lurking behind, awaiting manifestation when the time is opportune? 

Wednesday, July 20, 2022

The Phantom of the Opera

 In a remote existence, before our lives were graced by precious children, and life's vocation entirely shepherded by their needs, my wife and I were privileged a trip to New York. To take a break from work. For fun. Indulge in touristy things. While I would have been entirely content sampling restaurants, savoring all manners of Asian foods alien to a Maine resident, riding trains to probe this majestic city, my wife insisted that we go to a Broadway show. "What's the point of coming to New York if we don't even go to a Broadway show?" must have been the exhortation. I conceded and we purchased tickets for "The Phantom of the Opera." It's a classic, my wife assured me. 

What I experienced at the show was thoroughly new. A sensory experience my body system, and conscience, had never before undertaken. A stage at the center accentuated by palpable awe and adoration of utterly silent spectators. Every sound amplified in import. Even a flicker of light simmering in  significance. Any movement, human or non-human, pitching a ripple in the air. Myriad of artists concocting splendid things, realtime. With instruments- flutes, oboes, keyboards, clarinets, trombones, tubas, string instruments, and who knows what! With mere speech- all kinds of pitches of sounds, flows and modulations. With body movements- precise, speedy, slow, smooth, unexpected, and entirely predicted. Stage lights dancing and shifting with the artists. Stage setup changing at marvelous speeds, almost magically. 

The result was a performance that reaches somewhere deeper in your body. The emotion at the stage penetrates your heart. Sends chills down your spine. Raises your hair in goosebumps. It is as if the body has vaporized and the particles have  amalgamated with the aura emanating from the stage. The stage has a grip on you. You willingly surrender to the sublime, entranced. 

"Humans are capable of doing this!" was the more tangible exclamation I could ascribe to my extraordinary experience. And I recall another distinct experience from that time. The wall of individual identities, of you and me,  was non-existent. The artists were not "American," "White or Black," "English-speaking or non-speaking." I was not a Nepali or a man or a short person. Any ascribing hindered the relationship. So we bared our identities. I was nothing. They were excellence. 

I have wondered, here and then, this relationship with excellence. When I have admired Einstein during my formative days, I have not thought of him as a German Jew, American citizen. While weeping, reading a book detailing Gandhi voluntarily taking a beating in South Africa, I have not seen him as a primarily Indian brahmin from Gujarat. Marveling at the magnanimity of characters in Coetzee's writings, thoughts of Coetzee as a white man from South Africa do not really situate in any immediate strata of conscience. They are just "my" people. There is no need for any other identity to intrude this relationship. 

When I think of myself immigrating to a different country, I have wondered how much of this experience with excellence has been a factor in lending courage to move. Immigrating is an uprooting experience, however voluntary it may be. We create myths to summon courage, I am certain, at some unconscious levels.  I suspect this blinding awe of excellence may be one of the factors that pumps our hearts as we set sail for the foreign lands.